@insectteam I did not understand what you mean about the diods. Could you please clarify or show with pictures?
I have not used the device since it does not feel saft to put in an enclosure if the diods burns hot.
And also, please share your stl files for the enclosure, here or on thingiverse

Hello !

I know that some time has passed but the problems with the heating diodes may be due to the wrong location in the drawings - they are there the opposite than they should be !!! (they should be directed to the inside with minuses as shown in the schematic and on the drawings they are outside) - I had the same thing until I checked

I also designed the housing for 3D printing - if Stormy is interested I can send it for sharing

@magpern:
It should never be hot. The thermal fuse should not be hot. Something is wrong with your module.

About range:
With module mounted inside wall (in in-wall can, below wall switch) it works fine about 10 meters from gateway.
Currently I have 5 modules working well for 6 months.
The only one problem I have is with poor quality Hongfa mini relays - some of these sometimes get sticky contacts and I need to remove wall switch and knock into relay. I changed relay to NPA-AS5 and problem gone.

I do not know how to advice you.
I suspect that there is some problem with your module - first try check why it is hot?
Or you live in very noise environment.

@stormy said in MySensors InCan double light switch:

@magpern

No, a have no problems with sketch.
It looks like some problems with radio communication.

It was. I used the default channel and apparently it was too noicy. Changed to another channel and it worked fine!

Diodes are only for protection transistor from reverse voltage spikes. Diodes never should be even warm. Something is wrong. You can test this without diodes.

Somehow, when powered by 5V from the FTDI, the device got hot. The Hi-link maybe did not like to get power from the FTDI? The diodes got super hot, and so did the Hi-link. I removed the diodes and could continue. Today, I tried 230V. It didn't work, the thermo fuse was busted, probably from the overheating earlier.
I shorted the fuse (temporarily) and everything worked fine. Hi-link was still alive and supplied 5 Volts
And this brings me to my question...

What kind of range do you get with this device? And how accurate is it?
I tried 50 centimeters from the gateway and got a fairly decent hit rate on the on/off from domoticz.
I moved the device to about 3-4 meters, and maybe got 50% hit rate. It was almost line of sight.
If I toggle the on/off from Domotics, with 3 seconds apart, I got like 10% hit rate, maybe every 10th click toggled the relay.
Placing it inside a wall sounds like a "no go" if almost line of sight doesn't work 100%.

What is your experience?

@magpern

No, a have no problems with sketch.
It looks like some problems with radio communication.

Diodes are only for protection transistor from reverse voltage spikes. Diodes never should be even warm. Something is wrong. You can test this without diodes.

47uF for radio is C6, you do not need to add next one.

@rolandow
There are a lot of manuals on the internet.
For example:
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoToBreadboard
https://www.circuito.io/blog/atmega328p-bootloader/
https://www.instructables.com/id/Burning-the-Bootloader-on-ATMega328-using-Arduino-/
https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Burn-the-Arduino-BootLoader-on-to-a-AtMega3/

@rolandow To burn a bootloader you need an ISP. I have used a cheap Chinese clone like this one
.
I have used Arduino IDE to burn the bootloader, but you can use other things too, like AVRDUDE.
A word of warning when using the Arduino IDE is that it also sets the fuses. So, you have to select the correct board type when you set the bootloader with this program (or change the fuses in the boards.txt file).
I bricked two atmega328 before I realized this.
In this post you can read a little about the flashing, or atleast it has links to other pages.

You can probably skip the bootloader all together and just upload the sketch with the ISP instead, but you wont be able to upload with serial in that case.

After the bootloader, you can upload with a FTDI. I also use a cheap clone like this one

I also use the Arduino IDE to upload the sketch, just select the correct serial/com port in the IDE.

The "InCan double light switch" does not auto-reset when upload starts, so you have to reset it manually. The white/yellow cable is connected to RESET on the ISP connector, and after I choose Upload in Arduino IDE and the build output in the IDE window is finished I touch the white/yellow cable to GND on the FTDI device, and the leds on the FTDI starts blinking.

Device is now programmed.

Good to think off is that the crypto chip is connected to A4, instead of A3. So if you use this and run the personalizer sketch, you have to set

#define MY_SIGNING_ATSHA204_PIN A4

in the sketch

Also, the original code for this device is not compatible with the MySensors development branch, but can easily be adopted, just comparing to the default MySensors RelayActuator sketch

I haven't started on my project yet, so I am glad to read some more information here.

@stormy: could you please add a bit of documentation and/or links to (english) documentation about how to put the bootloader on the atmel? Personally I haven't done this before; my Arduino's already had the right bootloader. I would like to know what the recommended uploader would be (maybe with a link or picture?) and what the recommended procedure would be to upload this.

Thanks for opening my eyes about this @magpern

@stormy Did you have any problems with the code? I have the Sensbender Gateway. It can read other devices fine, your device it can not read. The gateway reacts to it sending data, but the logs say the device gets no response.
I have posted a separate thread about it in Troubleshooting, but it would be nice to know if you have some idea too?

I have triple checked everything twice for shorts. There are none. The diodes however got hot as hell and so did the Hi-link, probably from shorting the reset. I have removed the diodes for now. I will get new once (of the correct footpriint) tomorrow. ). For now I run every thing from the USB port of the computer, so no 230V yet)

Is anything not standard? The Crypto chip is on A4, instead of A3, is there anything else? Bootloader and serial works fine. I can run the SecurityPersonalizer and that works fine.
I have tried to connect a 47uF to the radio, but still no dice.
I have tried the stock example of RelayActuator but that does not work either.

I just get the from the device

516950 TSM:INIT
516956 TSM:INIT:TSP OK
516960 TSM:FPAR
516962 TSF:MSG:SEND,255-255-255-255,s=255,c=3,t=7,pt=0,l=0,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:
518971 !TSM:FPAR:NO REPLY
518973 TSM:FPAR
518975 TSF:MSG:SEND,255-255-255-255,s=255,c=3,t=7,pt=0,l=0,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:
520986 !TSM:FPAR:NO REPLY
520988 TSM:FPAR
520990 TSF:MSG:SEND,255-255-255-255,s=255,c=3,t=7,pt=0,l=0,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:
523001 !TSM:FPAR:NO REPLY
523003 TSM:FPAR
523005 TSF:MSG:SEND,255-255-255-255,s=255,c=3,t=7,pt=0,l=0,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:
525017 !TSM:FPAR:FAIL
525019 TSM:FAIL:CNT=7
525021 TSM:FAIL:DIS
525023 TSF:TDI:TSL

and this from gateway

0;255;3;0;9;661854 TSF:MSG:GWL OK
0;255;3;0;9;662240 TSF:MSG:SEND,0-0-255-255,s=255,c=3,t=8,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:0
0;255;3;0;9;663828 TSF:MSG:READ,255-255-255,s=255,c=3,t=7,pt=0,l=0,sg=0:
0;255;3;0;9;663829 TSF:MSG:BC
0;255;3;0;9;663829 TSF:MSG:FPAR REQ,ID=255
0;255;3;0;9;663829 TSF:CKU:OK,FCTRL
0;255;3;0;9;663829 TSF:MSG:GWL OK
0;255;3;0;9;664143 TSF:MSG:SEND,0-0-255-255,s=255,c=3,t=8,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:0
0;255;3;0;9;665804 TSF:MSG:READ,255-255-255,s=255,c=3,t=7,pt=0,l=0,sg=0:
0;255;3;0;9;665804 TSF:MSG:BC
0;255;3;0;9;665805 TSF:MSG:FPAR REQ,ID=255
0;255;3;0;9;665805 TSF:CKU:OK,FCTRL
0;255;3;0;9;665805 TSF:MSG:GWL OK
0;255;3;0;9;666046 TSF:MSG:SEND,0-0-255-255,s=255,c=3,t=8,pt=1,l=1,sg=0,ft=0,st=OK:0

Is there anything one can measure with a scope or something?